The Czech Republic, Goulash and Dumplings..

It's been a while, but I've been busy - finding temporary dwellings in Berlin while settling in and playing shows at night with friends on various stages in the city - but I've been eating and documenting still. :)

During early September, my boyfriend and I went to visit his family in a small town called Česká Lípa (about an hour or less north by train from Prague). We did visit Prague (divine), where we mainly walked around the city. We managed to find many good places to eat, including an amazing cocktail bar focusing on fresh ingredients. If you travel Europe and haven't been to Prague, you are a fool and must go right now. The details in architecture are beyond charming and unique. The views of the city from different points must not be missed, nor a trip across the bridge to the palace and nearby park. The pics below are just several examples of all the glorious buildings you walk across - all lined up, one after another..

We also stopped in to eat at a pub for some local fare - goulash and dumplings with a pilsner (this particular goulash was mainly juice from pork meat and powdered peppers), a common and hearty dish eaten in the Czech Republic. 

                                                      Goulash lunch special, local pub in Prague

Goulash comes from Hungary, but it is popular in Eastern and Northern Europe - and in Germany, I am finding. Typically onions and garlic are added, and additional spices such as cumin or marjoram. It can be more of a stew (as it was at this pub) or a soup. This lunch (only 3 Euros) was served with potato dumplings, filled with chunks of bread and little pig bits to make it extra tasty. I prefer potato dumplings over the bread-like ones - they are heartier and seem to have more flavor. And of course, one must order a Pilsner as after all, this is the country it calls home. Plus it helps wash down the slightly bitter after-taste of the paprika pepper sauce. This goulash was delicious, even without the tomato (which is often added in other recipes). 

After a few days in the city, we went up north to Česká Lípa. There I visited both parents and my boyfriend's Grandmother. I will be calling her Grandma Czech from now on, as she is the one who prepared most food while I was there and very true to the culture of her life in Česká Lípa and its surroundings. :) 

Both households (Grandma and Mom + Dad) had backyard gardens big and abundant enough to feed the entire neighborhood. Apple, apricot, plum, and pear trees filled the yard along with scores of tomatoes, strawberries, raspberries, aubergines, snow peas, yellow and black currents, lettuce, brussel sprouts, concord grapes…. I could go on but it's exhausting.

Grandma Czech didn't just have her garden - she also keeps chickens, turkeys and rabbits. I was told she once had a pig and a goat in addition - all in her backyard. She cares for all these animals but also uses them for food when the moment arises. You'd never guess she takes care of business when the time comes - but she does. I admit she has a lot more guts than I do where that is concerned.

But let's talk about Dumplings. :)

I woke up to Jan warning me if I didn't go downstairs I would miss Grandma making her special dumplings for breakfast. I quickly threw on some clothes and ran down to find her already rolling them. She handed me a square piece of dough (made from boiled potato mixed with a bit of salt and course flour) and plopped a small plum (picked right from her tree outside) into the middle of it and instructed me to roll until it covered the plumb completely. 

                                                            

                                                          Roll, Roll, Roll the Dumplings... 

                                                   That's course flour on the board, there...

                               

After rolling a number of these, she plopped them into a pot of boiling water and let them sit in there for about 6-7 minutes, warning me not to let them stick to the bottom of the pot. She then removed them and first poured a combo of sugar and poppy seeds over the top, then drizzling melted butter to finish them off..

After this they are ready to serve. I sat down and stuck my fork in - surprised at how easily it went in through the plum. It was hot and steamy but after a few seconds, I took a bite and I could not believe how delicious this was - and how simple. The tartness from the plum skin was divine, as was the flavor of the heated plum - not as sweet as it would have been but just perfect in my mind in this dumpling. I think I ate about 6 of them. The plums were fresh and in season, which of course makes a big difference. Even more romantic was the thought that they came right off of the tree in the backyard. I had to stop myself from gorging on more. Fortunately we were out the door soon for a long walk. 

After I ate all 6 dumplings, Jan and I took a hike around the village and visited a mountain nearby. The landscape is green and lush and full of fields for farming. Grandma was out in the field the day before picking up potatoes harvested that season - she had clearly gotten some sun and I was impressed by how vital and physically energetic she is in her 70s. She told us when we returned that afternoon we would have rabbit from the yard. That was an experience and will be the topic of the next post. Here's a pic of her trying to hold back her enthusiastic dog, whom was very keen to jump all over us upon arrival. Adorable.