Sunday, February 19, 2012

Praising Braising

I have of late become enamored with braised meat and have long since coveted simple braised dishes to be able to whip up on a slow Sunday that will yield not just one rich meal, but rich leftovers throughout the week. I tried my hand today at one--a pork shoulder braised in a white wine reduction/chicken stock sauce and served with ricotta dumplings. The family was pleased with it. I was not.

I am still trying to wrap my head around what was missing from the dish. The pork tasted lifeless to me. I am used to smoking pork shoulders, and that produces a slightly drier but more flavorful meat. Which I find odd, given that this process is perpetually basting the meat with a powerful liquid. The reserved sauce, once reduced and strained, was fantastic. However, I did feel like the chicken stock to wine ratio was a bit skewed. (8 cups of stock went in after reducing the initial 2 cups of wine to virtually nothing).

So it got me thinking. Perhaps it would be a good idea to smoke a pork shoulder for two hours and then transfer it to the dutch oven for braising in a smaller amount of liquid for two hours (it took four hours of braising in the oven to reduce a four pound boston butt to fork tenderness). This might enable me to produce a sauce with less stock while also imparting more smokiness and character to the meat. It is well worth a try.

One note--it is imperative that the pork be carmelized before serving. It is quite easy. Simply fry in olive oil for five minutes without flipping or otherwise stirring the meat. Just let it cook. Do it in a single layer, and don't crowd the pan (or use a damn big pan).

More thoughts on braising to come.

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